How to Grow Cilantro
Cilantro bolts fast in summer heat. This guide covers succession planting, bolt-delay tricks, and timing by USDA zone for continuous US harvest.
Key takeaways
- Cilantro bolts when temperatures exceed 75°F — plant in spring and fall to avoid summer heat
- Succession planting every 2–3 weeks provides continuous harvest through the cool season
- Direct-sow rather than transplant — cilantro develops a taproot and resents root disturbance
- Slow-bolt varieties like 'Leisure' and 'Calypso' extend the harvest window by 2–3 weeks compared to standard types
- Allow plants to bolt and go to seed — the seeds are coriander spice, and plants self-seed freely for fall and next spring
The main reason cilantro fails for most US gardeners
Cilantro bolts — sends up a flower stalk and goes to seed — within 3–6 weeks of planting in most US spring conditions. By the time summer arrives, most cilantro plants are already running to seed. The solution is succession planting, cool-season timing, and slow-bolt variety selection.
This is the most underappreciated herb challenge in American gardens. Cilantro is genuinely a cool-season crop. It wants to grow in the same conditions as lettuce and spinach: cool soil, cool air, and short to moderate days. Once temperatures push consistently above 75°F, the plant treats it as a signal to reproduce and bolt.
Understanding this biology — not fighting it — is the key to reliable cilantro production across US zones.
When to plant cilantro by US zone
Plant cilantro in the cool seasons: spring (before temperatures hit 75°F consistently) and fall (when temperatures drop back below 75°F).
| Zone | Spring planting | Fall planting |
|---|---|---|
| Zones 3–4 | April–May | August |
| Zones 5–6 | March–April | August–September |
| Zones 7–8 | February–March | September–October |
| Zones 9–10 | January–February | October–November |
| Zone 11 | November–January | Not applicable (year-round cool season growing) |
In most US zones, there are two productive cilantro windows per year. The spring window is shorter — summer heat ends it quickly. The fall window often lasts longer because temperatures cool gradually rather than warming abruptly.
Check your exact zone at the planting zones guide for specific last-frost and first-frost dates that define your planting windows.
Fall planting is often the more productive season. Soil is warm enough for quick germination, but cooling air temperatures slow bolting significantly. Fall cilantro typically lasts longer than spring cilantro in Zones 5–8.
How to plant cilantro
Direct sow rather than transplant. Cilantro develops a taproot quickly after germination. Transplanting disrupts the taproot and causes the plant to bolt faster than direct-sown plants. This is the most common reason purchased cilantro transplants perform poorly.
Seed preparation: Cilantro seeds are actually two seeds joined in one husk. Gently crush the husk between your fingers before sowing — this speeds germination by allowing the seeds to separate and hydrate more easily. Germination without crushing: 10–14 days. With crushing: 5–10 days.
Sowing depth: 1/4 inch deep, 2–3 seeds per spot, thinned to 4–6 inches apart after germination.
Sun: Full sun in spring and fall when temperatures are cool. In summer (if you’re attempting summer growing), partial shade significantly extends the harvest window.
Soil: Moist, well-drained soil with added compost. Cilantro tolerates a range of soil types. It does not perform well in waterlogged soil.
Succession planting for continuous harvest
Sow new cilantro seed every 2–3 weeks through the cool season. When one planting bolts, the next one is ready to harvest. This is the only reliable way to maintain a continuous cilantro supply.
In Zone 6, a spring succession schedule might look like:
- Planting 1: March 15
- Planting 2: April 1
- Planting 3: April 15
- Planting 4: May 1
By the time Planting 1 bolts in late May or early June, Plantings 2, 3, and 4 are at varying stages. Harvest continues without gaps.
In fall, extend succession planting until 6–8 weeks before first frost — that gives the last planting time to establish and provide at least one good harvest before freeze-out.
A 4-by-4-foot bed dedicated to cilantro succession plantings can supply a household through the full cool season with minimal effort.
Slow-bolt cilantro varieties
Choosing a slow-bolt variety extends the harvest window by 2–3 weeks compared to standard cilantro.
| Variety | Bolt resistance | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| ’Leisure’ | High | Most widely available slow-bolt; excellent leaf production |
| ’Calypso’ | High | Dense leaf canopy; very slow to bolt |
| ’Santo’ | Moderate | Standard variety; widely available at garden centers |
| ’Confetti’ | Moderate | Finely cut leaves; attractive in containers |
| ’Moroccan’ | Low | Fast-growing but bolts quickly; best for coriander seed harvest |
‘Leisure’ and ‘Calypso’ are the best choices for US gardeners focused on leaf production. They are widely available as seed from Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Burpee, and most local garden centers.
Standard ‘Santo’ is acceptable and is often the only variety stocked at garden centers — it works fine for succession planting but bolts faster than the specialty varieties.
How to harvest cilantro
Harvest outer leaves when plants reach 4–6 inches tall. Use scissors to snip stems just above a leaf node. Take no more than one-third of the plant at one harvest to allow continued growth.
Harvest frequently. Regular harvesting slows bolting slightly by preventing the plant from building the energy needed to flower. Harvest every 5–7 days once plants are established.
What to harvest: The young, fresh leaves at the top of stems have the best flavor. Older leaves at the base are still usable but stronger. Stems are edible and have good flavor — include them in cooking.
When plants begin to bolt: Once you see the central stem beginning to elongate and the leaves becoming smaller and more feathery (carrot-like), the plant is in pre-bolt. Harvest as much as possible immediately — the flavor begins to change once flowering begins. See the next section for what to do with bolting plants.
What to do when cilantro bolts
When cilantro bolts, don’t pull it up. Let it flower and go to seed.
The flowers attract beneficial insects — predatory wasps, lacewings, and hoverflies that feed on aphids and other garden pests. The seeds that follow are coriander — a valuable cooking spice used in Indian, Mexican, and Middle Eastern cuisines. Collect them for the kitchen or leave them on the plant.
For self-seeding: Let several plants go to seed and drop seeds onto the soil at the end of each season. In Zones 5–8, a significant portion of those seeds will germinate as volunteers the following spring. Over time, a well-established cilantro bed essentially replants itself.
Collect coriander seeds: When seed heads turn brown and papery, cut the stem and place it upside down in a paper bag. Shake seeds loose after 1–2 weeks of drying. Store in an airtight jar — whole coriander stays fresh for up to 2 years.
Growing cilantro in containers
Container cilantro is practical and produces well. Use a pot at least 8 inches wide and 10 inches deep — shallow containers dry too fast and restrict the taproot.
Container tips:
- Fill with quality potting mix, not garden soil
- Water when the top inch feels dry — containers dry faster than in-ground soil
- Move containers to shade in warm weather to slow bolting
- Direct sow into the container rather than transplanting starts
Container cilantro on a porch or balcony in light shade lasts noticeably longer than in-ground cilantro in full sun during spring heat. This is one of the best advantages of container growing for this herb.
See container gardening for small spaces for pot sizing and soil mix ratios that work for herbs including cilantro.
Companion plants for cilantro
Cilantro pairs well with other cool-season crops that share its planting window and conditions.
Good cilantro companions:
- Spinach and lettuce: Same cool-season timing; similar water needs; low root competition
- Dill: Separate by 18 inches — cilantro and dill cross-pollinate if flowering at the same time, producing seeds with mixed flavor
- Tomatoes (mature): Plant cilantro at the base of tomato cages in early spring before tomatoes are transplanted; cilantro is finished before tomatoes need the space
Avoid near cilantro:
- Fennel: Allelopathic — fennel root chemicals inhibit germination of many herbs including cilantro
- Other members of the carrot family: Competition for similar soil resources
For herb companion planting in a dedicated kitchen herb garden, see how to start a vegetable garden for bed setup guidance that applies to herb beds as well.
Common problems
Poor germination: Soil too dry or seeds sown too deep. Cilantro needs consistent moisture to germinate. Keep the top 1 inch of soil moist until seeds sprout.
Damping off: Seedlings collapse at the soil line. Caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Improve drainage and reduce watering frequency.
Aphids: Common on new growth, especially in spring. Knock off with a strong water spray. They rarely cause lasting damage to plants this small.
Wilting in heat: Normal for cilantro above 80°F. Plants wilt in afternoon heat but recover overnight. If wilting persists into the morning, water thoroughly.
For authoritative US information on cilantro production including variety trials by region, Johnny’s Selected Seeds Research Center publishes annual trial results comparing bolt resistance and yield of cilantro varieties across US growing conditions.
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.