Amaryllis: Care and Growing Guide

What is amaryllis?

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a South American bulb that blooms indoors in 6–8 weeks from planting, producing trumpet-shaped flowers 6–10 inches across on stalks 18–36 inches tall. It is the most reliable indoor flowering bulb for US gardeners — it requires no cold stratification, blooms in a predictable window, and a single bulb can rebloom for 25 or more years.

The name causes some confusion. True Amaryllis is a genus of South African bulbs; what Americans call amaryllis is technically Hippeastrum, from South America. The Hippeastrum name never stuck in US commerce, so “amaryllis” is standard. For this guide, we use “amaryllis” throughout.

US garden centers and mass retailers sell amaryllis bulbs from October through January. Most are sold pre-packaged with their own pot and growing medium — an appeal for gift-giving. The dominant varieties in the US market come from the Netherlands and South Africa, where bulk production drives down prices. In 2023, the National Garden Bureau estimated that more than 30 million amaryllis bulbs were sold in the US in a single holiday season.

Amaryllis varieties for US growers

Bulb size matters. Larger bulbs (4–5 inches in diameter) are sold at premium prices for a reason — they produce more stalks per season. A 4-inch bulb reliably produces two flower stalks with 4 blooms each. A 3-inch budget bulb typically produces one stalk. If you’re buying for reliability, spend more on bulb size.

When and how to plant amaryllis

Plant amaryllis 6–8 weeks before you want it to bloom. For Christmas flowers, plant mid-October. For Valentine’s Day, plant early December. For Easter, plant mid-January.

This timing works because amaryllis begins blooming once it sends up a flower stalk, and the stalk appears in 2–3 weeks. Total time from planting to peak bloom: 6–8 weeks, with some variation based on room temperature (warmer rooms speed the process slightly).

Potting amaryllis correctly

1. Choose a pot just 1–2 inches wider than the bulb diameter on each side. A 3.5-inch bulb goes in a 6-inch pot; a 4-inch bulb in a 6–7 inch pot. Amaryllis blooms best when slightly root-bound.

2. Add well-draining potting mix to the bottom third of the pot. Standard houseplant potting mix works well. Avoid heavy garden soil.

3. Set the bulb on the potting mix. The top one-third to one-half of the bulb should sit above the rim of the pot. Do not bury the bulb. The exposed neck is normal and intentional — burying it causes rot.

4. Fill in around the bulb with potting mix, leaving the top of the bulb exposed.

5. Water once thoroughly after planting, then stop watering until growth begins.

Watering before growth

This is where most bulbs fail. After the initial watering, wait until you see the first shoot emerging from the bulb tip before watering again. This waiting period is essential — watering a dormant bulb before growth starts leads to bulb rot.

Once growth begins, water when the top inch of soil feels dry. A blooming amaryllis in a warm room needs water every 5–7 days.

Light and temperature for bloom

Place the potted bulb in a warm spot — 68–75°F — with bright indirect light. Avoid direct southern sun during the bloom period, which can shorten flower life.

Once the flower stalk is visible, cooler temperatures (65°F) slow bloom development and extend flower life. Moving a budding plant to a slightly cooler room can extend the display by one week.

Planting amaryllis outdoors (Zones 9–11)

In USDA Zones 9–11 (southern Florida, coastal Southern California, the Rio Grande Valley, and parts of coastal Texas and Louisiana), amaryllis can be planted directly in the garden and left in the ground year-round.

Outdoor amaryllis in these zones typically blooms in spring — March through May — without forcing. The naturalized bulbs multiply over time, with established clumps producing dozens of stalks each spring.

Planting instructions for Zones 9–11:

• Plant with the neck just above or at soil level
• Space 12–18 inches apart in clusters for the best visual effect
• Provide well-draining soil and full sun to partial shade
• Water during dry spells; reduce water in late fall to trigger dormancy and bloom

In Zone 8 (Houston, Atlanta, parts of coastal Pacific Northwest), amaryllis often survives in the ground with winter mulching but bloom reliability is variable. Treat Zone 8 as borderline — grow in containers that can be brought inside during hard freezes.

For colder zones: Dig amaryllis bulbs in fall before the first frost. Remove soil, let them air-dry for a few days, and store bare in a paper bag or open container at 50–55°F. Replant the following October or bring inside to force for the holidays.

How to get amaryllis to rebloom

The key to reblooming is not the rest period — it’s what happens before the rest period. Summer feeding is what most US growers skip, and it’s why they don’t get flowers the following year.

After the amaryllis finishes blooming:

Step 1 (February–May): Cut the stalk, keep the leaves After all flowers fade, cut the flower stalk to about 2 inches above the bulb. Leave all the leaves intact. The leaves will grow throughout spring and summer and manufacture energy that is stored in the bulb.

Step 2 (May–September): Summer outdoor growing Move the pot outdoors after the last frost (or to your sunniest window). Amaryllis leaves need direct sun during the summer months to build up the bulb. Feed every 2 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer (10-10-10) through August. This is the step that determines next year’s flower quality and quantity.

Step 3 (September–October): Trigger dormancy Stop watering in mid-September. Let the leaves yellow and die back naturally. Do not pull the leaves — let them dry completely and fall off or pull gently when papery. Store the pot in a cool (50–55°F), dark location — an unheated garage, basement, or spare refrigerator. Leave it there for 8–10 weeks.

Step 4 (October–November): Restart After 8–10 weeks of cool rest, bring the pot back to a warm room. Remove any dead leaves or roots from around the bulb. Water once. Within 2–3 weeks, a new shoot should emerge. Resume normal care.

Amaryllis troubleshooting

Growing amaryllis alongside other indoor plants

Amaryllis peaks in midwinter when few other flowering houseplants are in season. That timing makes it ideal for pairing with other winter-interest indoor plants.

For a full-season indoor flowering sequence, consider:

• October–November: Paperwhites (no forcing required) and chrysanthemums
• December–February: Amaryllis peak bloom
• March–May: Forced tulips and hyacinths in pots
• Year-round: Foliage plants like snake plants, pothos, and philodendrons as a backdrop

Our house plants guide covers the most reliable US indoor plants by light requirement, a useful companion to amaryllis if you’re building out a year-round indoor garden. For rooms with low natural light, our low light houseplants guide identifies which plants perform well below the light threshold that amaryllis needs.

For summer, when amaryllis foliage is outdoors building the bulb, our hostas guide covers a complementary shade plant that peaks when amaryllis is in its summer growth phase.

Amaryllis as a gift plant

Amaryllis is one of the few gift plants that can actually pay off long-term. A well-chosen gift pot from a big-box store or garden center — if rebloomed properly — can produce flowers for decades.

Two tips for buying amaryllis as a gift:

1. Bigger bulb = better gift. Choose the largest bulb available. In garden center displays, larger bulbs are often sold separately from smaller kit bulbs. Spend the extra $5–8 on size.

2. Include reblooming instructions. Most recipients don’t know amaryllis can rebloom. A handwritten card with the rebloom steps (keep leaves, fertilize in summer, force dormancy) doubles the value of the gift.

For other standout holiday and late-winter flowering plants, our hellebore guide covers a garden perennial that blooms from February through April — a natural sequence after amaryllis.

Amaryllis in US garden design

For Zone 9–11 gardeners planting amaryllis outdoors, the key design consideration is mass: single amaryllis plants look sparse against most garden scales. Groups of 7–15 bulbs planted 12–18 inches apart produce the bold spring display the plant is capable of.

Color combinations that work outdoors:

• Red amaryllis + white society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea)
• White amaryllis + blue agapanthus
• Mixed pink-and-white amaryllis with green foxtail fern (Asparagus densiflorus)

For colder-zone gardeners designing a late-winter indoor sequence, amaryllis pairs naturally with hellebore in pots, begonia for summer succession, and best spring perennials outdoors once the amaryllis goes outside in May.

For comprehensive indoor plant care guidance applicable to the summer houseplant phase, our best indoor plants for air quality article covers how to manage indoor plants with limited light — relevant for the post-bloom amaryllis growing indoors near a south window.

Authoritative US resources

The University of Minnesota Extension publishes one of the most thorough US-focused amaryllis care guides, with variety recommendations tested in cold climates. The National Garden Bureau’s designated year files include bulb production data behind the figures cited in this guide.