Catnip vs Catmint

The key difference between catnip and catmint

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) and catmint (Nepeta × faassenii and related hybrids) are related plants from the same genus but serve different purposes in US gardens—catnip for cats and herbalism, catmint for ornamental borders.

The confusion comes from overlapping common names. Both plants are called “catnip” and “catmint” interchangeably in casual conversation, garden centers, and even some seed catalogs. The distinction matters when you are choosing a plant for a specific purpose.

Here is how to tell them apart at the garden center:

• Catnip (Nepeta cataria): Upright, bushy growth to 2–4 feet. Leaves are gray-green, coarsely toothed, and covered in fine hairs. Flowers are small and white with purple spots. The scent is pungent and unmistakable.
• Catmint (Nepeta × faassenii, N. racemosa, and hybrids): Lower mounding growth, typically 12–24 inches tall and wide. Leaves are smaller and greener than catnip. Flowers are blue-purple to lavender, produced in abundance on arching stems. The scent is present but milder.

If the plant is labeled ‘Walker’s Low,’ ‘Six Hills Giant,’ ‘Little Titch,’ or ‘Cat’s Pajamas,’ it is a catmint hybrid—not true catnip. If the label says Nepeta cataria, that is catnip.

Side-by-side comparison

How catnip works on cats

Nepetalactone, the active compound in Nepeta cataria, binds to feline olfactory receptors and triggers a temporary euphoric response in cats with the relevant genetic trait. Roughly 66–80% of domestic cats respond to catnip. The response is genetic—kittens under 6 months and some adult cats do not react at all.

The response lasts 5–15 minutes. After it fades, cats become temporarily immune for 30–60 minutes before they can respond again. The plant is not harmful to cats and does not produce addiction.

Catmint hybrids contain nepetalactone too, but at lower concentrations. Many cats ignore catmint entirely or show only mild interest. For gardeners who want to grow something specifically for their cat, Nepeta cataria is the right choice. For gardeners who want an attractive perennial that does not turn their beds into a cat rolling zone, catmint hybrids are a better option.

Growing catnip (Nepeta cataria)

Where catnip grows best

Catnip is native to central Asia and naturalized across the US. It thrives in poor, well-drained soil in full sun. Rich, moist soil encourages lush growth that flops and becomes susceptible to powdery mildew. Sandy or rocky soil with full sun produces compact, aromatic plants.

Catnip grows in USDA Zones 3–9 as a perennial. In Zones 3–4, it dies back completely in winter and returns from the root crown in spring. In Zones 7–9, it may remain semi-evergreen through mild winters.

Starting catnip from seed

Catnip seeds need cold stratification to germinate reliably. Two approaches:

1. Direct sow outdoors in fall. Seeds experience natural winter cold and germinate in spring.
2. Refrigerate seeds for 2–3 weeks before spring planting. Place seeds in a damp paper towel inside a sealed bag in the refrigerator, then sow.

Germination takes 10–20 days at 65–75°F soil temperature. Seedlings grow quickly—transplant or thin to 18–24 inch spacing.

Managing self-seeding

Catnip self-seeds prolifically if allowed to set seed. For gardeners who want to contain it, deadhead spent flower stalks before seeds mature. For gardeners who want to spread it through a naturalistic area or herb garden, leave a few stalks to self-sow.

Self-sown plants often show some variation from parent plants—this is normal for an open-pollinated species.

Harvesting catnip

Harvest catnip leaves and flowers for drying or fresh use at the point of first bloom, when aromatic oil concentration is highest. Cut stems back by half. The plant will regrow within 4–6 weeks for a second harvest.

To dry: bundle cut stems and hang upside down in a dry, ventilated location out of direct sun. Dried catnip retains potency for 1–2 years stored in a sealed container away from light.

Growing catmint (Nepeta × faassenii and hybrids)

Best catmint varieties for US gardens

Several catmint cultivars have proven themselves in US trials:

For detailed care and performance notes on specific varieties including ‘Cat’s Pajamas,’ our cats pajamas plant guide covers this popular compact catmint in depth.

Planting catmint

Plant catmint in spring or fall in full sun to light shade. In Zones 7–8, afternoon shade helps plants through summer heat. In Zones 3–6, full sun produces the best blooming.

Catmint tolerates poor soil extremely well. Rich soil produces more foliage and fewer flowers. Plant in well-drained, average soil. The only condition catmint cannot tolerate is waterlogged soil in winter—it will rot. Raised beds or sloped sites with natural drainage prevent this problem.

Space plants according to their mature width. ‘Walker’s Low’ needs 24–30 inches between plants. ‘Little Titch’ can be planted at 12 inches. Planting too close creates a tangle that holds moisture and develops powdery mildew.

The cut-back trick for reblooming

The key to getting catmint to bloom from May through fall is shearing the plant after the first bloom flush.

When to cut back:

• First bloom: May–June
• After first bloom fades: Cut entire plant back by one-third to one-half
• Second bloom: August
• Optional: leave second bloom to fade naturally OR cut back again in early September for a third flush in some zones

This shearing also prevents catmint from flopping open in the center, which happens when plants finish blooming and the stems relax without support. A hard cut keeps the mound compact and tidy.

A sharp pair of hedge shears works faster than pruners for this task. The whole job takes about 10 minutes per established plant.

Catmint and pollinator value

Catmint is among the best perennial choices for attracting bumblebees and native bees in US gardens. The tubular flowers are sized for smaller bees. Eastern bumblebees (Bombus impatiens) and common eastern bumblebees (Bombus griseocollis) visit catmint heavily from late May through July.

The second bloom flush in August extends catmint’s pollinator benefit into a period when many summer-blooming plants have finished. For gardeners trying to support native bees across the full season, catmint paired with early and late bloomers covers the midsummer gap.

For a broader strategy to attract native pollinators with a mix of plant types across the season, our attract pollinators guide covers plant selection from April through October.

How catmint compares to similar plants

Gardeners often compare catmint to lavender, Russian sage, and salvia—all blue-purple-flowering perennials with similar drought tolerance and deer resistance.

Catmint starts earlier than lavender and Russian sage, making it the best choice for bridging the gap between spring bulbs and midsummer perennials. Its lower stature compared to Russian sage makes it easier to integrate into mixed borders without dominance.

For care guides on the comparison plants above, our lavender plant care guide and Russian sage guide cover both in detail.

Which one should you grow?

Choose catnip if:

• You want to make cat toys or treats for your cat
• You are growing an herb garden and want a plant for herbal tea
• You want a naturalized planting in a low-visibility area
• You are growing a wildflower meadow mix that benefits from self-seeding plants

Choose catmint if:

• You want a front-of-border or edging plant with season-long interest
• You need a deer-resistant perennial that looks polished
• You are filling gaps between more structured shrubs or larger perennials
• You want to attract bumblebees and native bees without an unkempt-looking plant

For front yards and visible planting areas, catmint varieties like ‘Walker’s Low’ and ‘Cat’s Pajamas’ are almost always the better choice. Catnip’s loose, floppy habit and tendency to self-seed look out of place in tidy beds.

For herb gardens and naturalistic back-yard plantings where some disorder is acceptable—and where your cat deserves their own garden section—catnip is the right plant.

Both are excellent choices for deer-resistant plantings. Our deer resistant perennials guide ranks Nepeta species consistently among the top performers for browsing prevention across US garden zones.

Common problems with catnip and catmint

Powdery mildew: White coating on leaves is the most common problem, especially in humid US climates. Prevention: adequate spacing for air circulation, full sun placement, avoid overhead watering. Treatment: remove affected leaves, apply potassium bicarbonate spray, or wait for fall when humidity drops.

Flopping after bloom: Catmint stems relax after flowering and the plant opens up in the center. Prevention: the shearing method described above. If a plant is already flopped, cut back and wait 3–4 weeks for compact regrowth.

Root rot in winter: Both species can rot in waterlogged soil during freeze-thaw cycles. Plant in raised beds or on slopes. Sandy soil with good drainage prevents this entirely.

Cats destroying plants: Newly planted catnip in particular gets rolled on and flattened by neighborhood cats before it establishes. Protect young plants with a wire cage for the first season. Once established and woody at the base, plants recover quickly from cat attention.

Aggressive self-seeding: Catnip self-seeds more prolifically than catmint. If self-seeding is a problem, deadhead before seeds mature. Catmint hybrids like ‘Walker’s Low’ are sterile and do not self-seed at all.

The Cornell University Cooperative Extension publishes information on Nepeta species including regional pest pressure data and zone-by-zone growing notes—a useful reference for US growers working with either species.