Creeping Myrtle: Care and Growing Guide

What creeping myrtle is

Creeping myrtle (Vinca minor) is a semi-evergreen, mat-forming groundcover that spreads through rooting stems to cover shaded areas under trees, along slopes, and in areas too dry or rooty for grass. It is hardy in USDA Zones 4–9 and requires minimal maintenance once established.

The common name “creeping myrtle” is used interchangeably with “common periwinkle” in the US — both refer to Vinca minor. The name “periwinkle” reflects the distinctive blue-purple color of the flowers, which appear in early spring. The plant is native to Europe and western Asia and has been grown in US gardens since the colonial period.

Creeping myrtle is not a true myrtle (genus Myrtus) — the “myrtle” in the name comes from its rounded, glossy leaves, which resemble true myrtle foliage. Do not confuse it with wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera), a large native shrub used in Southern US gardens.

Vinca minor varieties for US gardens

For typical groundcover use under trees or on slopes, the species type or ‘Bowles’s Variety’ provides the most coverage per plant. Variegated varieties (‘Ralph Shugert’, ‘Illumination’) spread more slowly — useful where coverage needs to be managed but not ideal for large-scale plantings.

The vinca flower guide covers the annual vinca (Catharanthus roseus) — a different plant entirely. Annual vinca is a heat-loving bedding plant; Vinca minor is the cold-hardy perennial groundcover discussed in this article.

Light requirements

Creeping myrtle is one of the more light-tolerant groundcovers available for US gardens, growing across a wider light range than almost any other perennial option.

In the upper Midwest and Northeast, creeping myrtle handles more sun than it does in the Southeast. In Zone 7 and warmer, afternoon shade is beneficial — plants in full afternoon sun in southern climates can look stressed in midsummer.

Planting creeping myrtle

When to plant: spring or fall. Fall planting gives the root system time to establish before summer heat. Spring planting in Zones 3–5 is preferred — fall-planted groundcovers in the coldest zones may not establish well enough before winter.

Spacing: 12–18 inches on center. Closer spacing (12 inches) fills in faster and reduces weed pressure in the first two years. Wider spacing (18 inches) is more economical but requires more initial weeding while plants grow to cover bare soil.

Soil prep: creeping myrtle tolerates poor, dry, and rocky soil better than most perennials, but it establishes faster in amended soil. Work in 2–3 inches of compost before planting. In heavy clay, add a 2-inch layer of pea gravel or coarse sand to improve drainage — Vinca minor roots rot in waterlogged conditions.

Planting depth: set transplants so the crown is at soil level. Do not bury the crown. In areas with erosion risk (slopes), plant at a slight angle so stems can contact soil and root as they extend down the slope.

After planting: water deeply at planting and once or twice weekly for the first full growing season. After the first season, established plants rarely need irrigation except during severe drought.

Watering and fertilizing

Year 1: water weekly to encourage root establishment. One deep watering (1 inch total) per week is better than frequent light watering.

Year 2 and beyond: established creeping myrtle is drought-tolerant in Zones 4–7. In Zones 8–9, water during extended dry periods in summer. Under trees where root competition is intense, more frequent watering may be needed in summer.

Fertilizing: creeping myrtle does not require fertilizer but responds well to a single application of a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) in early spring. Scatter it over the planting area at the label rate and water in. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which push leafy growth at the expense of flowering.

For a comparison of plants for shaded areas with similar low maintenance requirements, see low maintenance front yard landscaping and deer resistant flowers — Vinca minor appears on both lists.

When creeping myrtle blooms

Creeping myrtle blooms in early spring — one of the earliest perennial groundcovers to flower in the US.

Flowers are 5-petaled, ¾ inch across, and flat-faced — the typical “periwinkle” form. The classic color is medium blue-purple, though varieties range from deep purple to lavender to white. Each plant produces dozens to hundreds of flowers in the spring flush.

A light rebloom may occur in fall in Zones 7 and warmer, particularly if plants were sheared in late summer. This secondary bloom is sparse compared to spring.

The flowers attract early-season bees and are one of the few groundcovers to provide early pollinator resources in shaded areas. See attract pollinators to your garden for a list of other early-blooming plants that provide similar benefits.

Annual maintenance

Creeping myrtle is genuinely low-maintenance, but one annual task significantly improves appearance and density: shearing.

Annual shearing (late winter to early spring):

1. Before new growth begins (February in Zones 7–9, March in Zones 5–6)
2. Set a string trimmer or hedge shears to 3–4 inches height
3. Cut the entire planting back to this height
4. Rake away clippings

This shearing removes winter-damaged, bleached, or leggy growth and forces dense new stems from the crown. Plants sheared annually stay dense and carpet-like; plants never sheared become open, mounded, and eventually sparse in the center.

Do not shear after April in Zones 4–6 — late shearing removes developing flower buds and delays spring bloom.

Slope and erosion control

Creeping myrtle is one of the most reliable plants for slope stabilization in the Eastern US. Its rooting stems anchor soil effectively once a continuous mat forms. On slopes:

• Plant 12 inches apart for faster coverage
• Use erosion control fabric between plants for the first two years while coverage develops
• Choose the species type rather than variegated varieties for faster spread

Creeping myrtle on slopes does not require mowing and is much less labor-intensive than grass on the same terrain. It handles both wet-and-runoff zones at the bottom of slopes and dry-and-exposed zones at the top, though it prefers the moister conditions at the base.

Growing creeping myrtle under trees

The most common US use for creeping myrtle is as groundcover under established trees, where lawn grass fails because of shade and root competition. Tips for this application:

• Do not till deeply when preparing soil under mature trees — you will cut major surface roots. Hand dig individual planting holes instead.
• Use a 3-inch mulch layer around (but not touching) tree trunks before planting; the mulch reduces competition while vinca establishes.
• Expect slower establishment under evergreen trees (spruce, hemlock, cedar) than under deciduous trees — dense evergreen canopy also reduces rainfall penetration.
• Sugar maple roots are some of the most aggressive competitors; give extra water in the first year under sugar maples.

For full sun perennials or sun-loving groundcovers, creeping myrtle is not the right choice. It is specifically suited to shaded and part-shaded sites.

Invasive status and responsible planting

Vinca minor is classified as invasive or a plant of concern in several Eastern US states:

• Virginia: listed as invasive by the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation
• Ohio: listed as invasive by the Ohio Invasive Plants Council
• Pennsylvania: noted as a problem plant in natural areas by Penn State Extension

In these states and neighboring regions, Vinca minor should not be planted near natural areas, woodland edges, parks, or stormwater channels, where it can escape cultivation and crowd out native wildflowers.

Responsible use: plant only in managed garden settings with barriers (sidewalks, edging, structures) that limit spread. Remove plants that escape into lawn or adjacent natural areas promptly. Check your state’s invasive plant list at the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service database (plants.usda.gov) before planting.

If invasiveness is a concern but you want a similar shade groundcover, consider native alternatives: Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica), wild ginger (Asarum canadense), or green-and-gold (Chrysogonum virginianum) — all native to the Eastern US with similar shade tolerance but no invasive designation.