Strawberry Companion Plants

Why companion planting works in strawberry beds

Strawberries benefit from companion planting more than most garden crops. Their low, spreading habit, shallow roots, and susceptibility to fungal disease and nematodes create specific problems that the right neighboring plants can directly reduce.

The evidence for companion planting varies. Some pairings have documented research support. Others rest on long-standing gardening practice. This guide distinguishes between the two — which companions have data behind them, and which are traditional but unproven.

Strawberries grow in all 50 US states, with June-bearing varieties dominating Zones 3–7 and everbearing types preferred in Zones 5–8. The companion planting principles here apply across zones, though specific plant selections vary. Check your zone at the planting zones guide to confirm which varieties are best suited to your climate.

Best strawberry companion plants

French marigolds

French marigolds (Tagetes patula) are the most research-backed companion plant for strawberries. UC Davis field research shows that interplanting strawberries with French marigolds reduces root-knot nematode populations by measurable amounts over a full growing season. Root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.) are one of the most damaging soil pests for strawberries across the US Southeast and California.

The critical distinction: French marigolds (T. patula) are the effective type. African marigolds (T. erecta) do not produce the same nematode-suppressing compounds at the same level. Plant French marigolds 12 inches from strawberry crowns around the border of the bed, or in a solid border around the entire planting. See marigolds for the complete guide to growing French and African types.

Garlic

Garlic planted in fall — in the same bed where strawberries will be planted the following spring — provides two benefits: allium compounds in the soil reduce several fungal pathogens, and overwintering garlic greens deter aphids. Garlic is harvested in June, just as June-bearing strawberries are finishing their peak production. The timing works well.

In established strawberry beds, plant garlic cloves 6–8 inches from strawberry crowns in October. The garlic greens appear in early spring and don’t compete significantly with strawberries.

Thyme

Creeping thyme planted between strawberry rows serves as a living mulch. It suppresses weeds in the row gaps, reduces soil evaporation, and the volatile oils it releases have been associated with reduced spider mite populations in several university extension trials. Thyme is perennial in Zones 4–9, so it persists alongside the strawberry planting without replanting each year.

Use low-growing creeping thyme varieties (Thymus serpyllum) rather than upright culinary thyme, which competes more aggressively for space.

Borage

The claim that borage improves strawberry flavor is traditional gardening lore without strong scientific backing. What borage does do is attract pollinators strongly — bumblebees visit borage flowers at high rates, and better pollination directly improves fruit set, berry size, and uniformity. See attract pollinators to your garden for pollinator plant combinations that complement a strawberry bed.

Plant borage 18 inches from strawberry crowns — it grows to 18–24 inches tall and can shade strawberries if planted too close.

Chives and alliums

Chives planted on the border of a strawberry bed deter aphids through the volatile sulfur compounds alliums release. In practice, a continuous border of chives (planted 6–8 inches apart along the edge of the bed) has been reported by extension gardeners to reduce aphid colonization on adjacent strawberry foliage. Chives are also perennial in Zones 3–9, returning each year without replanting.

Plants to avoid near strawberries

Some plants compete aggressively with strawberries, introduce shared disease risks, or produce allelopathic compounds that inhibit strawberry growth.

Verticillium wilt is the most important disease to avoid building up in strawberry beds. It persists in soil for years. Do not plant strawberries where tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, raspberries, or brambles have grown in the past 3–4 years. Similarly, do not plant those crops where strawberries have struggled with wilt symptoms.

How to set up a companion-planted strawberry bed

A practical layout for a 4-by-8-foot raised bed:

1. Border: Plant French marigolds every 6 inches along all four sides of the raised bed. This creates a continuous nematode and aphid buffer.
2. Corners: Place one borage plant in two of the four corners (diagonal corners). Borage grows large — 18–24 inches — so plant it where it won’t shade strawberry rows.
3. Between rows: Plant creeping thyme between the strawberry rows as a living mulch. Space thyme plugs every 6 inches between rows.
4. Edge: Plant a single row of chives along the north or east edge where they won’t shade strawberries.

This setup requires about 20 French marigold plants, 2 borage plants, 8–10 thyme plugs, and 6–8 chive plants for a standard 4-by-8-foot bed. Total companion plant cost: under $15 using seed-grown transplants.

For bed setup guidance, see how to start a vegetable garden for soil preparation steps that also apply to strawberry beds.

Timing companion plant installation

The timing of companion planting matters as much as the companion selection.

• Marigolds: Transplant 2–3 weeks after strawberry planting in spring. If marigolds are planted at the same time as strawberries, the marigolds may shade young strawberry crowns before establishment.
• Garlic: Plant in October for spring strawberry benefits. In established beds, plant garlic between plants in fall.
• Thyme: Plant at the same time as strawberries in spring, between plants. Creeping thyme is slow to spread and won’t compete meaningfully in the first season.
• Borage: Direct sow or transplant at least 18 inches from crowns when strawberry plants are 2–3 weeks established.
• Chives: Plant along border edges at the same time as strawberry planting.

Strawberry companion planting in containers

Container strawberry growing is popular in small US yards and apartments. The same companion principles apply in containers, scaled down.

For a 16-inch pot with 3 strawberry plants:

• Place 2–3 French marigold plants along the pot edges
• Add one small creeping thyme plant between two of the strawberries
• Skip borage and garlic in containers — they grow too large relative to the container space

See container gardening for small spaces for pot sizing and soil mix guidance that works for both strawberries and companion plants in containers.

Soil preparation and ongoing care

A well-prepared strawberry bed benefits companions as much as the strawberries themselves. Rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5–6.5 supports marigolds, thyme, chives, and borage without additional amendment.

Before planting:

• Incorporate 3–4 inches of compost into the top 8–10 inches of soil
• Test pH and adjust to 5.5–6.5 if needed
• Avoid soils where tomatoes, peppers, or raspberries were grown in the previous 3 years

See how to start composting for making high-quality compost that improves both strawberry production and companion plant establishment.

What the research actually says

University extension research on companion planting for strawberries is more limited than gardening tradition suggests. The most solid findings:

• Marigold nematode suppression: Documented in multiple university field trials. Effect is stronger when marigolds are grown as a cover crop and tilled in before strawberry planting than when planted as a border.
• Alliums and aphids: Some evidence supports reduced aphid load near allium plants. Effect appears to be distance-dependent — chives must be within 12–18 inches to have meaningful impact.
• Borage and pollination: Well-established that borage attracts bees at high rates. Correlation with improved fruit set is logical but not directly measured against controls in published trials.

For current research on strawberry production and pest management, Cornell University’s New York Berry Network publishes updated research on strawberry integrated pest management relevant to northeastern and northern US growing conditions.