Hicks Yew: Care and Growing Guide
Hicks yew grows 10-20 feet tall in Zones 4-7 with dense dark green foliage and red berries. Covers planting, pruning, deer pressure, and shade tolerance.
Key takeaways
- Hicks yew grows 10-20 feet tall and 4-6 feet wide — columnar without pruning, but it takes shearing well for a formal hedge
- It tolerates full shade to full sun, making it the best columnar evergreen for north-facing walls and deep tree canopy
- Grows in USDA Zones 4-7 and is cold-hardy to about -20°F — far more cold-tolerant than boxwood or arborvitae
- Female plants produce red berries in fall that are toxic to humans and dogs — remove berries where children or pets access the hedge
- Deer browse Hicks yew heavily in winter — protect new plantings with wire cages in high-deer-pressure areas
Hicks yew at a glance
Hicks yew (Taxus x media ‘Hicksii’) is a columnar evergreen that grows 10–20 feet tall and 4–6 feet wide in USDA Zones 4–7. It tolerates full shade, heavy pruning, and wet soil — capabilities that arborvitae and juniper cannot match. It is the default choice for privacy screens on north-facing exposures throughout the eastern US.
Hicks yew is a hybrid between English yew (T. baccata) and Japanese yew (T. cuspidata), first introduced in the early 20th century. The ‘Hicksii’ selection was chosen for its strictly upright columnar habit and dense branching. It became the standard shade-tolerant screening evergreen in US landscapes by the 1970s and remains one of the most widely planted formal hedge plants in the northeastern and mid-Atlantic states.
The plant has one significant limitation: deer. In the eastern US, Hicks yew is heavily browsed in winter when snow covers ground-level food sources. In suburban areas with high deer populations from New Jersey to Virginia, unprotected Hicks yew hedges are stripped to bare branches by February. Knowing this before you plant — and having a protection strategy — determines whether you get the hedge you want or an annual maintenance problem.
Hicks yew vs. similar columnar evergreens
These are the most common alternatives to Hicks yew for privacy screening in the eastern US:
| Plant | Zones | Sun | Height | Shade | Deer | Growth rate | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hicks yew | 4–7 | Full sun to full shade | 10–20 ft | Excellent | Highly browsed | 6–9 in/yr | Best shade screen |
| Arborvitae (Emerald Green) | 3–8 | Full sun | 10–15 ft | Poor | Highly browsed | 6–9 in/yr | Most popular screen |
| Boxwood (Green Mountain) | 4–9 | Part shade | 5–7 ft | Good | Low risk | 3–6 in/yr | Shorter; formal hedge |
| Blue Point juniper | 4–9 | Full sun | 12–15 ft | None | Moderate | 9–12 in/yr | Needs full sun |
| Taylor juniper | 4–9 | Full sun | 15–20 ft | None | Low risk | 12 in/yr | Best deer resistance |
Hicks yew vs. arborvitae: Both are the most common privacy hedge plants in the eastern US, and both are heavily browsed by deer. The key difference is sun tolerance. Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) needs at least 6 hours of direct sun and thins badly in shade. Hicks yew performs in full shade. For a shaded north-facing fence line, Hicks yew is the correct choice.
Hicks yew vs. boxwood: Boxwood is shorter and more formal. Hicks yew grows taller and screens faster. For a low-maintenance 3-foot formal hedge, boxwood is the better fit. For a 10-foot privacy screen, Hicks yew covers ground faster.
For a broader look at options across different light levels, see evergreen shrubs.
Growing conditions for Hicks yew in the US
Full sun to full shade and average, well-drained to slightly moist soil. Hicks yew is the most shade-adaptable columnar evergreen in US nursery trade. The zones are 4–7, which covers most of the eastern and midwestern US.
Sun: Hicks yew grows in full sun through full shade. In full sun, the plant grows slightly faster and foliage is slightly lighter green. In full shade, growth slows to 4–6 inches per year but foliage stays dense and dark green. It does not thin or die back in shade the way arborvitae does, which is its most valuable trait.
Soil: Prefers moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5). Yew does not tolerate waterlogged or consistently saturated soil — root rot (Phytophthora) is fatal when drainage is poor. It tolerates clay soil better than most conifers as long as drainage is adequate.
Moisture: More moisture-tolerant than junipers or arborvitae, but still needs air at the root zone. A moist, rich woodland-edge soil is ideal.
Zone performance:
- Zones 4–5: Cold-hardy to -20°F with no winter damage to needles or branches.
- Zone 6: Best overall performance range. Consistent growth, dense foliage.
- Zone 7: Performs well. Summer heat increases water needs.
- Zone 7b–8: Marginal. Winters are too mild for vernalization and summers stress the plant. Switch to a heat-tolerant alternative in Zones 8+.
How to plant Hicks yew
Plant in early fall or early spring. Space 3–4 feet apart for a dense privacy screen or formal hedge. Check soil drainage before planting — standing water after a heavy rain is the biggest risk factor for yew failure.
Drainage test: Dig a hole 12 inches deep and fill it with water. It should drain within 30 minutes. In clay soil that drains slowly, raise the planting grade by 4–6 inches or amend the planting area with coarse grit.
Planting steps:
- Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the root ball height
- Set the plant so the top of the root ball is 1 inch above the surrounding soil level — this prevents water from pooling at the crown
- Backfill with native soil; no need to amend with organic matter unless soil is extremely poor
- Water thoroughly — 3–5 gallons per plant
- Mulch with 3 inches of shredded bark, keeping mulch 3 inches away from the trunk
Spacing for hedges: Plant 3 feet apart (center to center) for a solid hedge within 5–7 years. Plant 4 feet apart for a looser screen that takes 8–10 years to fill.
Fertilizer: Apply a granular acid-forming fertilizer (such as Holly-Tone or a 10-5-4 formulation) in early spring. Young plants in their first 2–3 years benefit from annual fertilizing. Established hedges need fertilizer only if foliage yellows.
Pruning and shaping Hicks yew
Hicks yew tolerates harder pruning than any other common evergreen. You can cut it back to bare wood and it will regenerate — a trait that arborvitae, juniper, and false cypress do not share.
Shearing for hedges: Shear twice per year — once in late winter before new growth begins (late February–March in Zones 5–6) and again in mid-summer (July) to tighten the form. Use hedge shears or an electric hedge trimmer. Hicks yew responds cleanly to shearing and fills in densely after each cut.
Hard renovation: If an old Hicks yew hedge has grown too wide or has become leggy, it can be cut back hard — even to 12–18 inches from the ground — and will regenerate completely. This works best in late winter. The plant looks bare for one growing season, then recovers with dense new growth.
Unsheared habit: Left unpruned, Hicks yew develops a loose columnar form with slightly irregular branching. It is attractive as a naturalistic screen without any maintenance pruning.
What not to do: Do not shear in fall. Late-season pruning pushes new growth that is not hardened before winter, leading to dieback in Zones 4–5.
Problems to watch with Hicks yew
Deer browse is the most serious risk in the eastern US. Root rot from poor drainage is the most serious culture-related failure.
Deer browse: In the eastern US, deer consider Hicks yew a preferred food source, especially in winter. A deer herd can strip an entire hedge to bare stems in one night. Protection options: 6-foot wire cages around new plants for the first 3 years, spray-on deer repellent (reapply after rain), or deer-resistant fencing around the hedge perimeter. Once established and tall (over 6 feet), the top half of the hedge is usually out of deer reach, but the lower portion remains vulnerable. The Rutgers NJAES deer-resistance plant database rates yews as rarely damaged by deer in favorable conditions but highly damaged when deer pressure is high and food is scarce.
Root rot (Phytophthora): The needles turn yellow-green, then brown, from the branch tips inward. The progression is rapid once established. Remove affected plants and do not replant yew in the same location. Improve drainage before replanting.
Taxus mealybug: White cottony masses appear at branch crotches and at the base of needles. Severe infestations cause needle yellowing and dieback. Control with horticultural oil in early spring before buds break, or insecticidal soap sprays on young crawlers in May–June.
Phomopsis twig blight: Brown, dying shoot tips in spring on established plants. Caused by the fungus Phomopsis spp. Prune out affected tips 6 inches into healthy wood. Sanitize pruning tools between cuts.
For information on deer protection strategies across US garden plants, see deer resistant shrubs.
Design uses in US gardens
Hicks yew’s ability to grow in shade is its defining design trait. It fills the screening role that arborvitae cannot fill in shaded yards — the north-facing fence, the side yard between houses, the zone under a mature tree canopy.
North-facing privacy screens: This is Hicks yew’s primary use in US residential landscapes. A row of Hicks yew planted 3–4 feet from a north-facing fence creates a 10-foot screen in 12–15 years. Nothing else in US nursery trade does this job as reliably.
Foundation plantings: Hicks yew at the corners of a north- or east-facing house provides year-round structure without the sun that other evergreens need. It pairs well with shade-tolerant perennials like hostas at its base.
Formal hedges: Hicks yew shears cleanly into a crisp formal hedge — a look associated with traditional US estate properties and historic homes. Because it responds to hard pruning, hedges that outgrow their space can be cut back without starting over.
Under tree canopy: In a yard dominated by large deciduous trees, options for year-round screening are limited. Hicks yew is one of the few plants that provides both screening height and shade tolerance in this situation. For low-growing shade companions at its base, hostas and climbing hydrangea are proven US pairings.
For broader screening options, see arborvitae for full-sun alternatives and small evergreen shrubs for lower-growing options in part shade.
All parts of Hicks yew except the outer fleshy red berry are toxic to humans and most animals. The seed inside the berry is highly toxic. Before planting, assess whether children or dogs have regular access to the hedge area. If toxicity is a concern, choose a non-toxic evergreen alternative like arborvitae or boxwood. The Penn State Extension cooperative plant toxicity resource documents yew (Taxus) as one of the most consistently documented plant poisoning cases in the northeastern US, primarily from accidental ingestion by livestock and, less frequently, children and dogs.
Sarah Mitchell is a Master Gardener and garden writer based in the Pacific Northwest. She has been growing food and flowers for over 15 years across USDA zones 7 and 8.