Monstera Adansonii: Growing Guide

What makes Monstera adansonii different from Monstera deliciosa

Monstera adansonii — the Swiss cheese vine — is a compact, fast-growing tropical trailing plant with round to oval leaves covered in oval holes called fenestrations. It stays smaller than Monstera deliciosa and suits shelves, hanging baskets, and moss poles in homes and apartments.

Both plants belong to the Monstera genus and both develop fenestrations as they mature. The similarities end there. Monstera deliciosa produces split leaves that can reach 18–24 inches across at full size. Monstera adansonii tops out at 4–10-inch leaves with holes through the blade rather than splits from the edge.

Monstera adansonii is also faster to establish in home conditions. In bright indirect light, it produces a new leaf every 1–2 weeks during spring and summer. Monstera deliciosa grows one or two new leaves per month in ideal conditions. For beginners who want visible progress quickly, adansonii rewards attention faster.

Monstera adansonii vs. Monstera deliciosa — key differences

For apartment or small-space growers, Monstera adansonii is typically the right choice. It produces the distinctive holey Monstera look without requiring floor space or a very large pot. See easy plant for other beginner-friendly houseplants with similar light and water needs.

How fenestrations develop in Monstera adansonii

Fenestrations (holes) appear on new leaves in plants that have been growing for 6–12 months in bright indirect light. Older solid leaves will never develop holes — only new growth responds to improved conditions.

This is the most misunderstood aspect of Monstera adansonii care. Growers who move their plant into better light after months in a dim corner often expect existing leaves to change. They don’t. The plant cannot retrofit holes into already-formed leaf tissue.

What triggers fenestration is not fully agreed on by botanists. The leading hypothesis: holes reduce wind resistance and allow light to filter through the leaf canopy to lower leaves in the plant’s native rainforest habitat. Whatever the mechanism, the practical trigger in home conditions is clear — bright indirect light consistently produces fenestrated leaves, and low light produces solid ones.

Fenestrations become more numerous and the holes grow larger as the plant matures. A young adansonii might produce leaves with 3–4 small holes. A three-year-old plant climbing a moss pole in good light can produce leaves with 8–12 holes covering most of the leaf blade.

Light requirements for Monstera adansonii

Bright indirect light — the kind that illuminates a room clearly but doesn’t cast sharp shadows — is the target for Monstera adansonii. East-facing windows work best for most US homes. North-facing windows produce stunted, solid leaves.

Light level guide for US homes:

• South or west window: Bright to medium indirect (with sheer curtain to filter direct afternoon sun). Best for rapid growth and large fenestrated leaves. Direct sun without filtering causes bleached patches and curled leaf edges.
• East window: Morning direct sun plus bright indirect all day. The safest location for Monstera adansonii without any filtering. Strong consistent growth, reliable fenestration.
• North window: Low indirect light. Plant survives but leaves stay small (2–4 inches) and develop no fenestrations. Growth rate drops to one new leaf per month or fewer.
• Interior wall, no window: Too dark. Plant will decline slowly over months.

Foot-candle measurement: Monstera adansonii thrives at 150–400 foot-candles. An east window typically delivers 200–400 foot-candles during morning hours, dropping to 100–150 through midday. A north window delivers 50–100 foot-candles throughout the day.

Watering Monstera adansonii

Water Monstera adansonii when the top 1–2 inches of soil are dry. In spring and summer, this means watering every 7–10 days for most US homes. In winter, every 14–21 days.

Monstera adansonii tolerates brief drying more than it tolerates consistently wet soil. Root rot is the top killer of adansonii in home conditions — it develops when soil stays wet for extended periods, usually because the pot has no drainage or because watering happens on a fixed calendar schedule regardless of soil moisture.

How to water correctly:

1. Check moisture by pushing a finger 1–2 inches into the soil
2. If the soil at that depth is moist, wait
3. When that depth is dry, water slowly and thoroughly until it drains from the bottom
4. Empty the saucer or cachepot 30 minutes after watering — don’t leave roots sitting in standing water

If you notice small flies around the soil surface, overwatering is almost always the cause. See how to get rid of gnats in plants for the treatment protocol and homemade gnat trap for a simple DIY trap.

Humidity: Monstera adansonii prefers 50–70% relative humidity, typical of tropical environments. Most US homes run 30–50% humidity in air-conditioned summers. This is acceptable — growth continues but may slow in very dry conditions. A pebble tray with water beneath the pot adds localized humidity without risking overwatering. Misting the leaves provides only brief humidity and is not effective as a sole humidity strategy.

Soil and fertilizer

Use a well-draining potting mix with added perlite. A ratio of 4 parts standard potting mix to 1 part perlite works well. Avoid dense, moisture-retaining mixes marketed for succulents (too dry) or orchids (too loose).

The goal is a mix that holds enough moisture to satisfy the plant between waterings but drains quickly enough that roots never sit in standing water.

Fertilizer: Feed once per month in spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer (20-20-20 or similar) diluted to half strength. Skip fertilizing in fall and winter when growth slows. Overfertilizing — especially with a nitrogen-heavy formula — produces rapid, soft, leggy growth that is more susceptible to pest damage.

How to support Monstera adansonii for bigger leaves

A moss pole or coir totem can double or triple the leaf size of Monstera adansonii. As the plant climbs and its aerial roots grip the support, it shifts from trailing mode to climbing mode — leaves grow much larger.

This size increase is dramatic and consistent. A trailing adansonii in good light produces leaves 3–6 inches long. The same plant attached to a moss pole with aerial roots engaged can produce leaves 8–12 inches long within 6–8 months.

How to set up a moss pole:

1. Purchase or make a moss pole 18–36 inches tall with a diameter of 2–4 inches
2. Keep the moss moist — mist it or water from the top when watering the plant
3. Gently attach new vines to the pole with soft plant ties or velcro strips
4. The plant’s aerial roots will eventually grip the pole independently

Aerial roots on Monstera adansonii are normal. Do not trim them. They help the plant climb and also absorb moisture from humid air. If the aerial roots become very long, you can guide them into the potting mix rather than removing them.

Why is my Monstera adansonii turning yellow?

Yellow leaves on Monstera adansonii usually mean overwatering, very low light, or too little fertilizer. Check soil moisture and light first before adding fertilizer.

Diagnosis by leaf location:

• One or two lower leaves yellowing: Normal — old leaves at the base of the vine naturally yellow and drop as the plant grows. One yellow leaf per month on an actively growing plant is not a problem.
• Multiple leaves yellowing at once: Overwatering. Check the soil. If it’s wet more than 2 inches down, stop watering and let it dry completely before watering again.
• New, upper leaves yellowing: Light deficiency or nutrient deficiency. Check how many hours of bright indirect light the plant receives. If less than 4–6 hours, move it closer to a window.
• Yellow with brown edges: Low humidity combined with direct sun. Move away from direct afternoon sun and increase humidity.

See best indoor plants for air quality for other houseplants that are similarly forgiving and good for US indoor environments.

Propagating Monstera adansonii

Monstera adansonii propagates easily from stem cuttings with at least one node — the bump on the stem where a leaf attaches. Root in water or moist sphagnum moss in 2–4 weeks.

Propagation steps:

1. Cut a stem section with 1–2 nodes and at least one leaf using clean scissors
2. Remove the lowest leaf if it would be submerged
3. Place in a glass of clean water with the node submerged, keeping leaves out of water
4. Place in bright indirect light and change the water every 5–7 days
5. Roots appear in 2–4 weeks — transplant to soil when roots are 1–2 inches long

Propagated cuttings replanted back into the mother plant’s pot produce a fuller, bushier appearance within one growing season.

Pet safety with Monstera adansonii

Monstera adansonii is listed as toxic to cats, dogs, and humans by the ASPCA. The calcium oxalate crystals in the leaves and stems cause immediate mouth and throat irritation, excessive drooling, and vomiting.

Severity is typically mild to moderate — the crystals cause pain quickly, so most animals and children stop after tasting a small amount. However, ingesting large quantities or persistent chewing can cause more serious symptoms. Keep out of reach of pets and young children.

For outdoor USDA zone information relevant to growing Monstera outdoors in subtropical regions, see planting zones. In Zone 10–12 (South Florida, Hawaii, Southern California coast), Monstera adansonii can be grown as a perennial ground cover or climbing vine outdoors.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center’s plant toxicity list provides specific toxicity details and treatment guidance for Monstera ingestion by pets.